Category Archives: Blog

BRISTLECONE PINE AND LEHMAN CAVES: GREAT BASIN NP, NEVADA

img_2063Heading home on the stretch of Hwy 50 named, “The Loneliest Road in America”, we still got to visit a National Park that was new to us. It is the 100th Anniversary of the National Park Service and that is best celebrated with adding some new NP and NM sites to your life list. Because it’s the largest park in Nevada, I always thought that Big Basin National Park was one-of-a-kind in the high desert surrounded by mountains. This Park showcases just one basin…of the 16 that spread from Salt Lake City down to Las Vegas.

img_8425This basin is noteworthy for the anomalies in the mountain surround. Bristlecone Pines, the oldest living creatures on earth, are happy atop 12,000 ft. Mt. Wheeler. They are twisted and look desiccated and dead, except for one spindly living thread wending its way up each branch.

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This basin is a Dark Sky Reserve, meaning a minimal amount of ambient light interference, usually requiring a distance of at least 200 miles from major urban areas. It is never fully dark, however; the light cast by the stars in the ultra clean air is sufficient for walking around the campground. It is famous as the best viewing of the Milky Way anywhere in the U.S.

img_8503The Lehman Caves are many and exceptionally deep. A solutional cave is limestone (here, marble mixed in) creating halactites, stalactites, stalagmites, curtains, and pipes. Some of these rock chambers have formations large enough to contain the organ from the Mormon Tabernacle, and resembling it as well.

img_8484I watched mesmerized, waiting for the final drop of water to fall off the stalactite onto the almost touching stalagmite growing from the ground, to finally unite as a column. As it grows slowly due to its’ pace, a drop or two a day, I didn’t catch that final drop.

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A pretty rich place in the middle of a massive desert. We just hope that this cave and others can be protected as a home for native bat populations. White Nose Syndrome, caused by the fungus Geomyces destructans, has killed more than 6.7 million hibernating bats since 2006. Bat bones and piles of dead bats with white fuzz around their muzzles litter the floor of many now empty caves; it kills 70-100% of bats in an affected hibernaculum. The fungus wakes them repeatedly during hibernation depleting their fat reserves, and thins and destroys their wings leading to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. It threatens even the most abundant bat species with extinction; it is considered the worst wildlife disease outbreak in North American history. Because European and Chinese hibernating bats are not affected by the fungus, and bats do not migrate between the continents, it is a spelunker induced phenomenon. At Lehman Caves, there is no evidence yet of WNS, but one’s clothing and shoes are treated for contamination for cave visitors who have entered caves anywhere in the last 5 years.

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As the nights get icier and trees drop their Autumn leaves, the providers of free camping (National Forest Service, BLM, local Parks Districts) turn off water and close sewage disposal sites to avoid frozen pipes. Like bats and bears, it is time for us to hibernate at home in Albany CA…until sufficient snow accumulation sends us out in search of new areas to snowshoe. In the meantime, we wish our nation and our world, fair elections (GET OUT THERE AND VOTE…for a woman!), clean water, and peaceful holidays with family and friends. Abrazos, amigos!

RED ROCK SCRAMBLE: ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, UTAH

img_8377It takes six months lead time to get a campsite here…as though these “boondockers” decide where to sleep more than a few hours in advance. We decided that a great day trip exploring Arches was better than missing it completely. We arrived early, parked near the longest and steepest trail and set off with lots of water.

img_8379It is amazing that the National Park Service lets you loose to “friction climb” these very steep surfaces. Where are the liability lawyers screaming about the risk? Once again, we are happily allowed to assume the risks, like downclimbing the wall below (yes, that IS the trail) without ropes and Royal Robbin climbing shoes.

img_8396Signs of earlier cable rails on exposed, sheer walls are now just sawed off bolts. Because the sandstone rock is so “sticky”, it is safest to scramble up and down with your full weight on your soft soles…unless you get scared and elect to sit on your butt, which is more dangerous, per less friction!

img_8407The washes, walls, hoodoos, arches and towers are so sculptural. There is no trail, just rock cairns piled within view to lead you on.

img_8392Hunting is illegal in the National Parks so the Mule Deer own the place…

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…and everybody is helpful and happy. The campground host we interviewed is working her 27th year in the Park. Hey! We’re campground hosts! We could do this…’cept we wanna go home now…

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DIA DE LOS MUERTOS: DENVER BOTANIC GARDEN

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What a great holiday! Candy skulls, costumes, running around in the dark collecting loot, and maybe getting scared (without really being in any jeopardy), and often on a school night!

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The Denver Botanical Garden invited citizens to create alters in the gardens. One artist explained that she had spent every summer on the beach in the South at her grandmother’s so she filled hers with seashells, marine life images, and sand art.

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There was embroidered, welded, inlaid, tiled, and lots of paper cut out works of folk art around every corner. We appreciated the coke bottle cap art most of all…

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Through the ghoulish expression, comes an outpouring of love, vibrancy, and community. During our year residing in the State of Nayarit, Mexico in 2009-2010, Jacob and I observed families in the graveyards during the week before the holiday, cleaning up, planting flowers and decorating gravestones in preparation for the day when the families would come with picnics, boom boxes and joyous hearts to celebrate all day. Children were dressed up in their Sunday Finest, playing chase among the gravestones.

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Embracing death…what could be more natural? What better way to remove our existential fear of death? Give a party and dance to it!

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We especially liked the mixture of Madonna imagery with the ghoulish. Even Frida Kahlo, another Madonna Icon, was featured with cats in this crochet art. Happy Halloween! Go score some candy from your neighbors…in costume, of course!

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MINING & RANCHING: COLORADO III: SAN JUAN SCENIC BYWAY

 


Best little town in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, Ouray welcomes with hot springs, bakeries, and the best small Western Museum. The exhibits are exceptionally diverse yet compellingly personal. Debbie Reynolds shot, “The Unsinkable Molly Brown” on the Alpine Mountain Ranch, run by Marie Scott, a single, self made female cattle rancher (in the far right above). Debbie is belting it out with the cattle dog, while Marie probably contemplates buying up more land. She had a reputation for “buying any bucket of dirt”, accumulating $100,000 acres worth over $30 million in her life.


The mining industry provided work for all…if the conditions could be survived.


We played tennis in Silverton, finding little else of interest there as it exists as a tourist trap at the north end of the Silverton-Durango Railroad line. Durango is the Southern Terminus of the “Million Dollar Hwy” on the east side of the San Juan Mountains. It on has galleries, gorgeous old Victorian homes, parks, a beautiful college, and a wonderful riverside bike trail.


Heading north of Cortez, up the western side of the San Juans on the “Last Dollar Highway”, provides beautiful (free) camping by the Anima River, usually filled with campers and kayaks at higher water. We had it all to ourselves in late Autumn.


We stopped in Telluride, with big expectations befitting a town with many popular music, film and art festivals year round. It felt like a tourist trap with a lot of traffic. Even Tom Cruise fled, sellings out last year. Their mountains are beautiful so it may be great in the Winter.


Having finished our Autumn tour of the Colorado passes, we will head home via Arches NP and Great Basin NM. Steven has only been at home in Albany CA for 21 days in eight months, since last February. Suddenly, we just can’t wait to get home!


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Location:SAN JUAN SCENIC BYWAY

DANCING ASPEN: AUTUMN IN THE ROCKIES, COLORADO PART II

 


Having blasted through our iciest, highest, and most northern hikes and pass crossings (Rocky Mtn NP (14,439 ft.) and Independence Pass (12,096 ft.) in our first two weeks on this Colorado Autumn road trip (Colorado Blog 3/14/16, Part I), we looked forward to slowing down the pace. Mt, Kepler above and the “Top of the Rockies Skyway”, is our reward.


We lucked out and have had mostly warm sunny days for the last week through our next two passes, Mt. Mclure and Mt. Kepler. The Pass over Mt. Kepler is muddy gravel but the lack of traffic invites frequent stops for Big Horn Sheep and Coyote sitings, picnicking, shooting photos, and contemplating the wonders of nature. It was our favorite part of this road trip so far.


ASPEN live in biological mini communities so the ones that cohabitate drop their leaves all at the same time. You see slopes with clusters of survivors waiting for their perfect time to drop en masse. In the meantime they shiver and dance like they are being electrically shocked. It is like being on psychoactive mushrooms watching them.  Then they drop; sometimes in a stiff wind it appears to be bright yellow hail, and every dirt side road is covered in the aspens’ quarter sized yellow leaves.


The Black Canyon of the Gunnison River is a gorgeous 3,000 ft deep “grand canyon” with sheer walls. We hiked the Rim trails and slept at the very quiet and small North Rim Campground filled with young, buff rock climbers. One of the rangers complained of the climbing deaths here and wished the National Park Service would ban it. I guess it depends how you feel about letting the public assume responsibility for their own risky behavior. I say let them climb…but require helmets.


We have completed 3 of 5 Colorado Scenic Byways popular in the Fall. We missed Cottonwood Pass this time as it meant repeating a long road instead of driving and hiking loops to see new areas. No matter. We will be back! The photo below is an IPhone “water color application” to our photo of the approach to the North Rim of the Black Canyon.


We have one more Colorado Scenic Byway before we head west. We are told it is always snowing by this time in Southwestern Colorado but this next loop is plowed in winter so we feel no need to rush. Also the hunting season started a few days ago and we have been advised to stick to the National Parks for our hikes where all hunting is banned. We will likely break out our folding bikes, our tennis rackets and golf clubs, and hit some nice restaurants…in addition to strolling in the small towns along the way.


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Location:TOP OF THE ROCKIES SKYWAY

LATE AUTUMN IN THE PASSES: COLORADO, PART I

After a summer as Campground Hosts on the Oregon Coast, we were hungry for MOUNTAINS! We fled 103 degree temps during a two week visit with Sally’s mom in Los Angeles for…early winter in Rocky Mountain National Park.

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The National Park Service struggles mightily to keep Trail Ridge Rd. open over a 12,000 foot pass at the base of Long’s Peak (14,000 ft) for as long as possible in the Autumn. Unfortunately we didn’t time it right as winter conditions kept shutting down the road. We camped on the West side of the pass where the elk were still in rut, and on the East side for two great hikes in the Park….with a long drive around the outside of the park to string them together.

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We fled Boulder after enjoying a long walk by their central creek, as the growth, traffic, and expense was surprising; it is the effect of Boulder’s identity as a high tech corridor…and Google building a new campus there for 1200 new employees. Instead we stayed downtown in Denver to visit the fabulous Denver Art Museum and the Botanic Garden.

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Wow! The Botanic Garden is like a visit to Butchart Gardens in Victoria, B.C! No wonder so many Californians are moving here for the bike lanes and sophisticated city combined with easy access to the mountains.

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We headed southwest to tackle three 10,000-12,000 ft. passes that close soon for winter. On the way over Independence Pass, we stayed for free at a Forest Service area that had a potty with a fabulous view…

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We cleared the Pass and hustled on to the next one, with a free hot spring soak on the Crystal River…

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Will we make it over our next two passes before the snow falls in earnest? We are hustling to get to those with  muddy dirt/gravel roads first. Even if the roads are technically still open, without AWD, they just are not going to be available to us.

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PALS PULL US THROUGH: OREGON COAST, PART III

We have never lived in a small town. Nor have we lived in a farming community. We found our rural environment exciting…for about 5 weeks. With 8 weeks left to be hosts in our beautiful campground in Bay City, we were quite challenged to find stimulation, especially after an injury benched Steven from daily tennis. We solved this by weekly trips to Portland for ethnic food, weekly women’s tennis for Sally in Portland and Vancouver, WA across the Columbia River, and wonderful visits from our Portland pals! The gals at City Hall (our bosses, too) kept us laughing.

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We also started to go further away from our campground to sample fun coastal activities like…

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…climbing the enormous sand dune in Pacific City (far steeper than it looks at the bottom…note people crawling up, a necessity in the areas where the steep surface is all blown sand, so fine, it is one step up, 4 steps slide back)…

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…sharing the beach on a 7.2 mi walk with the Percherons on Bay Ocean Spit, sandwiched between Tillamook Bay and the Pacific Ocean…

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…hanging with the “girls” in the milking barn at the biggest and best County Fair in Oregon…

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…enjoying the owls living in the biggest existing wooden hanger in the world, used for blimps in WWII. There were no successful submarine attacks on Allied ships off the West Coast due to these behemoths used as spotters…

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…encouraging the Rail Riders with high fives (a great use of decommissioned timber rail lines)…

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…climbing Neahkahnie Mountain for a fine vista of shifting fog and wave patterns…

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…visits with Angie’s calm and sweet lab puppies…

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…tidepool rambling…

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…shopping for the most beautiful fruit and produce (and marionberry jam!)…

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…and sunsets and campfires because, it’s Summer, and the evenings are long and mild. Yet, we were antsy, sometimes bored (Sally read three Harry Potter books in Spanish and conjugated Spanish verbs for entertainment!) and needed our pals’ visits like oxygen for the brain. Next summer, we are coming back for five weeks at the end of Summer. Please visit! We need you!

DAIRY DAYS: TILLAMOOK, OREGON COAST: PART II

 


Living in a county with more cows (25,000) than human residents guarantees a few things: 1) Ummm! That yummy grassy cow poop smell; 2) outstanding fresh cheeses, and ice cream factory tours at Tillamook Creamery…”Chocolate Mudslide” with inch thick swirls of fudge, just can’t be beat; 3) a Dairy Days Parade with free cured meat products thrown to the crowds courtesy of Tillamook Meats, and other cow, agriculture, and timber themed parade features.

 


This community is rich in resources. For a small town, one fourth the size of our home town Albany, CA, it has both a YMCA ten times the size, a Safeway three times the size, and a library 8 times the size of those at home.


The Library programming includes a concert series (this one called, “CelloBop”, an electric cello with additional sound options that would make Jimmy Hendrix envious).

The ocean views and gorgeous forests and waterfalls can ALMOST make up for the dearth of good ethnic restaurants.


The natives are friendly and welcoming. In fact Sally has a job offer to teach swimming and water aerobics this summer…just in case the biking, tennis, golf and hiking aren’t enough!

You can pedal the rails here as well, and hang out with pretty macaws in our campground…


However we appreciated one enthusiastic citizen’s boast that his home town Tillamook should be most famous for one thing, “Even when people in the bars get really drunk, nobody gets into fights!” Doesn’t that make you want to come on out to the Oregon Coast to visit us in this peaceful place? Happy 4th of July🗽🇺🇸
…now get out there and eat some ice cream…Tillamook Creamery, of course!

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“PARK IT” FOR THE SUMMER: OREGON COAST: PART 1

Instead of driving miles to camp in Northern Alaska and Canada this summer, we are trying an experiment. As CAMPGROUND HOSTS in the small town of Bay City, Oregon (pop., 1300), we are staying put in “the pearl of Tillamook Bay”, for three months, 1000 yards from the Bay. We are camping by Patterson Creek, loving this huge public “back yard” (that doesn’t require any yard work, thanks to the Department of Public Works who also clean the bathrooms😃)…and playing tennis on the courts across the creek. Nearby golf courses are calling as well.

Across the highway is a fresh fish market and restaurant on the Bay, and a block away are a 24 hour market, funky sports bar, and organic produce market and cafe with wifi. With the help of City Hall, we obtained library cards too.

Whatever else we need we can get on the way back from our coastal explorations. We toured the shortest lighthouse on the Oregon Coast at Cape Meares…

…enjoyed meeting these 6 older riders in our park on Day 2 of a 3 month long cross-country bicycle ride…

…took our own short rides up above the park for views of our little Bay City, below through the trees…

…and we will catch lots of haystack and ocean views, of course, as we explore up and down the Coast.

All this beauty, and our only job is to collect campers’ fees at night and hand them over to City Hall every few days. With only two groups here for an overnight in the week we’ve been here, this is an easy gig, leaving our days free to explore.

So, send us an email so we can pin down one of the 5 sites in Bay City for you, and get thee on the road to the Oregon Coast this summer!

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Location: Bay City, Oregon

GORGE-EOUS WATERFALLS: THE FINGER LAKES, NEW YORK

 

To celebrate Steven’s Belated Birthday, I planned a week of surprises among the Finger Lakes as we planned to attend our son Jacob’s graduation from Rensselaer in nearby Troy NY the following weekend.

Daily, near Ithaca NY, we hiked up a variety of fern filled gorges to duck under tall waterfalls…

…admiring the beautiful 1940s, WPA built masonry bridges and stairways crisscrossing the gorges. Most outstanding was Watkins Glen State Park gorge…

…followed by soaks in deep tubs en suite or out of doors, or enjoyed post-hike naps in serene surroundings.

After a visit to the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown NY, Steven said he felt like a kid again visiting his childhood heroes all afternoon. He emerged as hungry as a kid exiting the ball field, so Chef Mel created a Farm-to-Table birthday repast at Mel’s 22 stopping by the table for a chat with the Birthday Boy. Never embracing the All-American Sport, I visited the Cooperstown circa 1800 graveyards…

…and created a candy wreath for our graduating computer scientist…

We got to meet the East Coast families that have hosted Jacob
for holiday meals in their homes over the years, and enjoyed a family reunion with our East Coast Martin Family, staying together in a big house in Troy for the three day Memorial Weekend.

A wonderful way to send off Steven on his 62nd year, and Jacob on his job in Seattle with Microsoft.


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Location:WATKINS GLEN STATE PARK